LEGO 2018 Hogwarts Express motorized & running! 75955

LEGO 2018 Hogwarts Express motorized & running! 75955

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Hey everybody this is the latest 2018
edition of the Hogwarts Express train from Lego and I have motorized it using
power functions what they call power functions 1.0 these days have not the
latest powered up system and as I mentioned in the review of this set in
its default form before rose motorized Lego did not make it easy to motorized
this thing they don’t have any accommodation for a motor I don’t have
any accommodation for any of the power functions components either 1.0 or 2.0
in there so if you want to do something like this you will definitely need to do
some customization and you’ll need to have your own parts library to be able
to draw from I’m gonna talk about a number of the options that are available
to us though I just chose one that kind of met my desires and my needs but
they’re a bunch of different ways to do it as always the easiest way to
motorized a lego train is to just use one of these 9-volt motors which is
fully enclosed this is it you just add this anywhere so with steam trains
typically people would just put this under the tender that’s easy enough to
do again will require some modification will require changing out a number of
pieces like this just has a flat plate at the base of it this has the pivot
sticking up so you’ll need a hole there to accommodate that you know you will
definitely need to add your own pieces you may want to switch over to the
standard magnetic couplers as well those look better and they also work better
and that’ll that’ll do it for you yeah just putting this one thing in however
of course that does require that you have a full nine volt system set up so
you need the metallic rails the metal rails that actually get power through
them to transmit into these wheels which then pick up and power the motor inside
and you need a transformer hooked up to electrify those and that’s that’s an
expensive proposition if you have all that setup wonderful if you don’t then
you are going to need to use just a regular motor of some sort that is going
to be battery-powered so you’ll need a battery on board now the second easiest
thing to do is to use the most recent powered up system the power functions
2.0 it’s been called system because this uses a motor and this has some extra
pieces on including the the coupler there and the side decorations on it but
effectively this is the same size and shape as just one of these so this is
all the power that you need in terms of the motor and gearbox but it does have
to get its juice ultimately from somewhere that somewhere is a battery
box but with the power functions 2.0 or powered up system this is it now so this
is where all of your power comes from and this is also the receiver so for
controlling it you use the remote controller or you can use a phone or
tablet with the app running on it and you just need to connect these two you
need to have these two things on your train at the same time and then you’ll
be good to go so converting using this system you just again place the motor
and unit underneath the tender it’s the easiest thing to do I suppose there some
ways you could do it with the the passenger car especially if you were to
lengthen it but I think it’s going to be easiest to put it under the tender and
then just put the battery box wherever you like the battery box can be placed
in a modified tender up above although it will need to be a good deal taller
you can kind of make some space for it here but you’ll need to remove a lot of
the decorations and you’ll end up changing the size and shape of this
especially around the firebox they’ll need to be widened up a good deal or
you’ll end up with a bunch of white and light grey visible another option is to
simply hide this in the passenger car there’s plenty of space in there just
take out a couple of seats you’ll still see the battery box itself from the side
mmm might be able to figure out something to
do to obscure that a little bit from the outside but it will be visible to some
degree and also if you don’t have the battery over the motor you won’t have as
much traction as you would if you did have it over the motor
and so you you may need to accelerate a little bit less quickly it may slip just
a little bit in some cases in really really tight turns it’s always best to
have most of your weight over the driven wheels but this isn’t too bad of a setup
and it’s probably the easiest there and then you have what most people have who
get into motorizing things these days power functions 1.0 again a very very
similar motor unit which is mostly self-contained but it does need to get
power from somewhere power would come from a battery box like this this is a
normal one that takes triple-a batteries inside they also have the rechargeable
ones which are the exact same size and shape again the same size and shape as
the powered up unit but this does not include a receiver so if you’re using
power functions 1.0 the most common stuff that’s been around for years now
you also need to have one of these the infrared receiver that’s actually going
to take the signal that is sent by your transmitter or your your controller and
it will then also in addition to translating that that signal it will
also regulate power from the battery to the motor so this takes power from the
battery it’s actually plugged into the battery the motor is not and then the
motor takes power from this and depending upon what signal it gets it’ll
send different amounts of that battery power
now you could you could go directly like this the only problem is as soon as you
turn that on you’re gonna go full speed which is not
a good look for a for a steam train unless you’re able to well now it’s
gonna say unless you’re able to gear it down a lot but you can’t with this you
only get one fixed gearing fixed gear ratio with the rechargeable ones which
are a lot more expensive but I really like them they pay for themselves over
time the rechargeable ones they do have a speed controller built in to where you
can manually dial in your speed so if you put this in a place where it’s easy
to access such as over the the tender again if you do something like this as
long as you have that that top center section of it
open well enough you can put just a little lever on it and set your speed
push a button turn it on and it’ll just go you don’t have remote control then if
it derails if you have a layout that is of some size or you have a tunnel or
something it derails at some point you won’t be able to turn it off easily you
know so there’s there’s a little bit more risk there but it will work it
definitely will work the other options the more complicated ones are are many
and they involve again using power functions a battery box power functions
a receiver but then your choice of motor so this is the smallest motor that they
make that’s a continuous rotation one this is the M motor or a medium size you
can also make an L motor work and this is what I started out trying just with
my first little attempt of just kind of figuring out space you know size where I
was gonna put things this will definitely work this is a good deal more
powerful I forget whether it’s faster or slower this one is geared down a bit
more but these will both work they’re the same width but this one is a little
bit longer and a little bit taller if you’re looking at it this way I ended up
using the M motor it’s plenty to pull the weight of this is not a very heavy
train which is which is cool and you can add on additional self-made passenger
cars as well so my setup is to put one of these I have a rechargeable one in
there but it’s not being used for its speed control purposes but one of these
is in the tender and I didn’t have to do too much modification to the tender it
just raised the sides up a bit and then I gave it a new a new top and hid away
some of the wiring inside of there but this is in there and then motor in my
case is actually in here mounted like this vertically and I’ll tear this apart
a little bit so you can see inside there to see you know how I did this if the
motor is mounted there and then the receiver is mounted in the cab like so
right up against it so that puts everything into just the engine and the
the tender so nothing is in the space of the the passenger car which means that
the passenger car then is able to still have passengers in it and that was
something that was very important to me that’s why I went for the vertical
orientation with the motor you can also do what a lot of folks have done for a
lot of a lot of custom trains just put this in horizontally there are a number
of options for how to gear that but that makes it a little bit more difficult to
find space for the receiver than in in the cab I think there may still be some
options but I think this is a more compact layout now let me go ahead and
well first of all just verify yeah there we go
this does work without the passenger car hooked up to it because it’s all
self-contained just right there I set it up with a removable button sort of on
top so you can see when it’s on you can see a little bit of green glow right
there not towards the top and now it’s off now it’s on yeah that’s just for the
sake of convenience and turning this upside down you can see where the
gearing is so this is presently just two wheel drive or single axle drive which
is plenty because I have most of the weight of the engine or a good deal of
the weight of the engine directly over the driven wheel and I’ve actually
cantilever it a little bit off the back with the additional weight added in for
the receiver and the cables and some of the other pieces towards the back it’s
it’s putting even more weight and shifting more weight towards that driven
axle so that works out just fine as long as you add friction rings these are just
rubber bands the red ones are the correct size to fit these wheels put
some on the front as well just to put some resistance in there to keep
traction on these wheels so that as the train moves these wheels will turn as
well just so you’ll see them turning rather than all the weight being
supported here and on the the front truck here that’s still able to move
side-to-side but you can see the motor down in there see how it’s just it’s
almost direct drive just two gears in total
and the receiver is behind there so let me go ahead and yeah there we go you can
actually see decently well where the receiver is facing towards the back but
I am going to like I said it takes some of this stuff off so you can see inside
a bit better there we go that shows you how the components are
exactly laid out with the motor vertical and the receiver just behind it both the
motor and the receiver are shifted by a half a stud lengthwise relative to the
rest of the engine and that was just to get the axle to be the driven axle to be
in its original location so it just required things to be shifted off a
little bit you see that the the receiver is actually sitting on top of jumpers
right now so if you look carefully you see a half a stud difference right in
there and it’s on top of jumpers ultimately gets clamped in with other
things from the cab and some additional pieces under there just to to get it to
hold itself into place and to kind of yeah I really create a clamping effect
that keeps everything together the motor itself is attached to the rest
of the engine via just studs so I’ve not used the Technic connections at the end
of that motor and the the key there with the way the motor is attached ultimately
to the axle is like so this is exactly the setup that I used and it’s actually
90 degrees off from that so I’m gonna just adjust that to be a little bit more
accurate the main piece that I’m using the main like so the main Technic piece
there that black part on on Brook link it’s known as pin connector toggle joint
smooth double with two pins and that’s a silly name it’s part number four eight
four nine six and they’re very easy to come by and it just allows that 90
degree change of rotation of axis in a very compact space and it holds
everything together pretty decently well just a couple of the smaller bevel gears
does the job and that’s exactly what’s sitting right there and the rest of it
is all just a matter of getting that to attach to the rest of
the chassis the lower chassis had to be redone because originally they use long
Technic bricks that go the whole length and all of the axle pins originally went
through those those two long bricks and I need to shorten that down so there’s
just a brick that goes from here to here to hold onto these these forward two
axles the ones that are not powered and yeah a little bit better from the
underside there and yeah none of the the Technic connections are actually used
from the motor or from any of the the driven items there too to be structural
so it’s it’s floating just a little bit in there you know this is able to move
forward and back I have not found that to be an issue at all that’s just from
the fact that they use non friction pin connectors in here so this is able to
just shift forward and back a little bit there are probably ways that you can use
the little bit of extra buffer space where I have the the half bushings in
gray there you probably connect something to those to make it even more
sturdy but the motor itself once the full cab is on is is held in place quite
sturdily so there’s there’s not that much space for anything to to move
around and that’s that’s pretty much the crux of it like I said just everything
else is just about making the connections just getting it into place
you know once you have the main components actually there and and
connected the rest of it is mostly just aesthetic I didn’t have to change out
the the cover is here so this is just using some some some tiles just to to
cover up that that whole space there just to you know make sure that you
still had a nice at least smooth surface there it required that I removed some of
the the curviness from the top of this segment so it doesn’t look quite as good
but you know it’s it’s covered up decently well and there will be many
many different ways that that folks can come up with possibly
including even some additional curvature up there and if you if you aren’t afraid
to expand this and to make the whole thing larger there are a lot of things
that you can do but I was trying to stay as close as possible to the original
design and the original size and shape of everything to make it look as
original as possible and then you do have to worry about routing cables it’s
always an issue with our functions in small bills it’s just folding up all
your cables and if you need to put an extra piece bracket or something in to
kind of keep that all tidy don’t be afraid to use a rubber band either you
know if you want to hold things in place but there it is closed up again just the
way that I personally chose to do it out of many possibilities you do still have
that visible battery box from the back and now you can see in the cab a little
bit but fortunately you know some of the black of the the cable kind of helps to
obscure some of that so it still looks okay no overall you know it’s it’s
fairly compact and most importantly I do have full control over speeds and such
just a little bit of offset from moving these things around but you know full
control from from the remote and I got this little button right there that
makes it easy enough to do and it does the job and I’m still able to put
passengers in the passenger car it would be nice at some point to have more cars
because just one is really not enough but you know not having any electrical
components in there was pretty important to me and I think this looks okay and
that’s just that I said in the review that I would try to find some time to
figure out a way to motorized this and so I did
fortunately was able to to make that time it only took me about a half a day
from the scratch wasn’t it definitely was not as hard as I expected but part
of part of the ease there was a lot of pieces available to me again
Lego definitely did not try to make it easy by any means if you have a nine
volt motor and you can just put one of those in you have nine volt tracks in
the transformer definitely be the easiest way to go if you get the new
powered up system they’re a little bit harder to get ahold of so far but as
they become more readily available and that’ll become another good option the
option of just putting in a power functions one battery box and motor
under the tender is a possibility but it’s strongly recommended that you have
a controller in there or at least a rechargeable battery pack so that you
can set the speed on this because yeah it’s okay running at top speed it’s
doable you know it looks very very lively maybe not very realistic people
tend to prefer to run steam trains at a slower pace you really enjoy it but yeah
it’s it’s another option so there are a number of things that you can do and
certainly I’m sure there are better ways to set up a motor inside of the engine
as well this was just one possibility certainly many hope that was enjoyable
and/or informative for you and I’m gonna get back to some other stuff so I’ll
talk to you as soon as I can thank you for watching

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  1. Hi Jang Bricks, another way of putting the battery box in the tender is to use a different set tender, the tender from the 2010 box looks better and can fit a battery box anyway 🙂

  2. @ JangBricks As a Suggestion for a New Steam Locomotive [Motorised in the same Style as This] The Stirling Single Steam Locomotive 4-2-0 [Ought not to be hard to build but then again i don't have power functions or Train Tracks]

  3. I remember I got this when they first made them. Always frustrated me that they never gave it a coal tender.

  4. Hi Jang, can we have a better view for that truck in the minute 17:33?

    Thanks and very good work hiding that engine in the train!

  5. I feel like ditch the tender and coach on this version and use the tender and coach from the last version I would make the set look even better

  6. I guess another option would be to create an additional cart in the back that looks like a "cargo" container that would push the train instead. Of course, it would be MOC but can spark some creativity to match the train. Some trains actually operate like this too in real life I believe, having a rear engine.

  7. Question on rebuild: how did you connect the back end of the main train (the section that has the IR Receiver on top) to the section with the motor? I’m having trouble linking these sections after replacing the black technic pieces that run along the bottom with shorter ones. Thank you for your time.

  8. At ~14.25: See the red 2x brick behind the wheels? Underneath it, place a 1×2 w/ axle hole, and to that attach an axle 2 (or a 3?) and a #1 connector. The connector's pin hole should fit perfectly in the middle of the wheel axle, holding it in place.
    Alternatively, the assembly could be placed in front of the axle and face back towards it.

  9. I know Jang will probably never read this, but I really wish he would do a Review on The Lone Ranger Constitution Train Set 79111. Would be awesome if he did it for Red Dead Redemption 2 Release day

  10. Is the lego piece at the front of the locomotive ( the one that says “Hogwarts Express”) isn’t that from the 2 Other Hogwarts Expresses

  11. Hi jang on one of your Lego train Mocs could you possibly make a futuristic war train, your videos are really good

  12. The one that Lego created in 2010 was just ugly, this one is an improvement, but it'll never be quite the Lego counterpart of n.o. 5972 "olton hall"

  13. Thank you for an awesome video 🙂 I have some questions about Lego trains.

    I do love them but haven't had time or money to get in to it, but now i have!!
    So i got some old rails from my fathers childhood laying around, and sins it is Lego i think there still should be compatible with newer stuff?

    Though i really cant find a way to simple buy a starting set with a control system and a train base. You are talking about something like a new Power Up system that has a standalone unit and you can control it with an app or so. Could you please tell more about that and maybe where i can get it? 🙂

    Thank you so much!

  14. hey JANGBRiCKS, if we were willing to customise the loco a bit to add power (like you suggested anyway), is it possible to put power functions in that front bogie of the locomotive there? Or would it effect the performance over points, corners, etc?

  15. Looking a bit short for the train as you already mentioned in your set review video. How about connecting more passenger wagons to it? Is it something you can make? And extra wagon? You have a great collection of elements Jangbricks! 😀

  16. Can you run this new one and the old one together? Or put them side by side to show the difference

  17. Ever since power up was relieved power fontions have just been rendered obsolete a lot of people are switching to power up because dose do use a lot of space and it's way more quiet than power fontions

  18. Wait! Wouldn't the muggles of the city be suspicious about a bright red steam train traveling through? Anti-muggle precautions people!

  19. I actually don’t like the new LEGO Hogwarts express

    It’s too simple looking looking

    I prefer the previous one….(not the first one)

  20. You should make your own British steam engine moc. Or at least British style of steam engine. Your custom steam engine is American style so it would add some differentiation in your city!!!

  21. What if someone bought 10 Hogwarts Expresses and attached all the passenger carriages together to make a massive Hogwarts Express

  22. I think that some of the main parts are :
    LEGO 48496 – Technic, Pin Connector Toggle Joint Smooth Double with 2 Pins
    LEGO 4514556 – Technic, Gear 12 Tooth Bevel x2
    LEGO 4265c Technic Bush 1/2 Smooth x2
    LEGO 8883 M Motor Power
    LEGO 8884 Technic Power Functions IR Receiver
    LEGO 88000 Technic Power Functions AAA Battery Box (or LEGO 8878 POWER FUNCTIONS RECHARGEABLE BATTERY)
    LEGO 8879 Power Functions IR Speed Remote Control
    Someone else has done similar:

  23. Hi there I'm wanting to do this with my son do you have a list of the parts you used to motorize the train and the extra parts used thanks 😊

  24. THANK YOU. I love the look of the train but was disipointed it wasn't motorized originally. You gave me hope. Even if i'm no capable yet….

  25. Where is a place that you can find motors and batteries besides E-bay? I have several custom engine builds that I wish to motorize but don't have any of the power functions kits, am I limited to having to buy older kits off E-bay to get the motor, battery, and LED receiver he used in the video?

  26. K. But can you use that battery box that doubles as a receiver for this build, or is the medium motor that you’re using only compatible with the older style of battery box? Cuz I’d like avoid having to place an external receiver in there, although I might just end up using the train motor set on the tender as opposed to sticking an m motor in the locomotive… although I’d really like for the loco itself to be motorized.

  27. hi, can you show us how to insert the standing motor inside the locomotive, and wich any additional briks need for it? I would like to motorizing my daughter's Hogwarts express

  28. I'd just buy a bunch of the one set and modify one of the cars to be a baggage car and hide the power source in the baggage car

  29. How to shift the motor by half brick and secure inside the train. It show the red cover of motor put it back on a black tile. But I have no idea how the black tile connect to the train

  30. Cool! Maybe you can add the other Harry Potter sets to make the wizarding world, and then it'll be complete!

  31. How did u moterize your express tho?… Cuz I wanna do it to my Hogwarts Express what would be the easiest way to do that??

  32. Great video, appreciate the ideas and tips! I ordered two trains today at 1/3 off (going to keep the extra passenger carriage from set #2 and sell off the rest). Planning on 'de-Potterising' the train with some small mods, but also want to motorize it. I'm lucky in that I've got a spare of each system (PF and PU) so I've got several options.

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